tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14709777453935664792024-03-12T20:15:37.300-04:00Kawasaki KLR250The Source For KLR250 InformationUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-51130892825135822582011-03-11T19:41:00.004-05:002020-05-29T16:07:12.288-04:00Kawasaki KLR250 Sales Brochure<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wrPrdmztK-E/TXq-31S3joI/AAAAAAAAALM/0bDOCEkuDwg/s1600/1987_kawasaki_klr_250_brochure_small.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wrPrdmztK-E/TXq-31S3joI/AAAAAAAAALM/0bDOCEkuDwg/s1600/1987_kawasaki_klr_250_brochure_small.jpg" /></a></div>Don't you wish you could jump in a time machine and go back to the days when your beloved Kawasaki KLR250 was brand spanking new? Wouldn't it be awesome to goto the local dealer and see it sitting there all shiny and glowing in the showroom? What about being able to pick up an original KLR250 brochure? Well we can't help you with the time machine but if you'd like to see that brochure you're in luck thanks to a member of <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cv_dusty/4801425852/" target="_blank">Flickr</a>. Check it out at the link below!<br />
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1TQNkjZILXQ/TXq-8W9jrfI/AAAAAAAAALQ/Ti9SwYoWxKU/s1600/1987_kawasaki_klr_250_brochure.jpg" target="_blank">1987 Kawasaki KLR250 Sales Brochure</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-89848711518874402052011-03-11T19:18:00.001-05:002011-03-11T19:44:12.924-05:00KLR250 Torque Specs and Other Information<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wsQKih-ds9c/TXqVzQgTnLI/AAAAAAAAALI/qAqq9bss4k8/s1600/1987_kawasaki_klr_250_dual_sport.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wsQKih-ds9c/TXqVzQgTnLI/AAAAAAAAALI/qAqq9bss4k8/s1600/1987_kawasaki_klr_250_dual_sport.jpg" /></a></div>If you work on your bike yourself it is guaranteed that at some point you will be looking for torque specs for it. Thats usually a problem because the only place to get those numbers are from a factory service manual. Thats why we created this page, a one stop spot for torque specifications and other general information for the Kawasaki KLR250 dual sport motorcycle.<br />
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Alternator Output: 10.5A @ 8,000 rpm - 14v<br />
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Axle Nut Torque<br />
-Front: 58 ft/lb<br />
-Rear: 69 ft/lb<br />
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Brake Drum Inside Diameter: 120-120.14mm (service limit 120.75mm)<br />
Brake Fluid Grade: DOT 3 or 4<br />
Brake Pad Lining Thickness: 4.5mm (service limit 1mm)<br />
Brake Pedal Free Play: 0-1.2" (0-30mm)<br />
Brake Rotor Thickness: 2.8-3.1mm (service limit 2.5mm) <br />
Brake Rotor Run Out: Less tahn 0.15mm (service limit .3mm)<br />
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Camshaft Bearing Inside Diameter: 23-23.013mm (service limit 23.07mm)<br />
Camshaft Bearing Oil Clearance: 0.045-0.073mm (service limit 0.16mm)<br />
Camshaft Chain Length: 20 link - 127-127.36mm (service limit 128.9mm)<br />
Camshaft Journal Diameter: 22.940-22.955mm (service limit 22.91mm)<br />
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Carburetor Float Height: 17mm<br />
Carburetor Main Jet: 118, 120, or 122 <br />
Carburetor Pilot Jet: 35<br />
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Chain Slack 0-5mm (between chain and swingarm, <a href="http://klr250.blogspot.com/2010/02/klr250-chain-adjustment.html">more info</a>) <br />
Chain Service Limit: 20 links - 12.7" (323mm)<br />
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Choke Lever Free Play: 0.08-0.12" (2-3mm)<br />
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Choke Usage Guidelines<br />
-68 to 95° F: Turn off after 15 seconds<br />
-Below 68° F: Turn off after 1.5 minutes<br />
-Below 40° F: Turn off after 2 minutes<br />
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Clutch Lever Free Play: 0.08-0.12" (2-3mm)<br />
Clutch Friction Plate Thickness: 2.7-2.9mm (service limit 2.5mm)<br />
Clutch Spring Free Length: 33.6mm (service limit 32.3mm)<br />
Clutch Steel Plate Thickness: Less than 0.15mm (service limit 0.3mm)<br />
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Compression Test: 60-114 psi<br />
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Cooling System Capacity: 1.5L<br />
Cooling System Mix: 50% water / 50% coolant<br />
Cooling System Thermostat Opening Temp: 157-162° F<br />
Cooling System Thermostat Fully Open Temp: 185° F<br />
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Cylinder Head Warp Limit: 0.05mm<br />
Cylinder Inside Diameter: 74-74.102mm (service limit 74.10mm)<br />
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Engine Oil Capacity: 1.5-2.0L (varies by year, fill to proper sight glass)<br />
Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Spec: 16.5 ft/lb<br />
Engine Oil Pressure: 14 psi at 4,000 rpm and 194° F <br />
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Fork Air Pressure Recommendation: 0psi (2.8-4.3 psi on rough roads)<br />
Fork Max Air Pressure: 36 psi<br />
Fork Oil Capacity: 321-329ml (270ml after oil change)<br />
Fork Oil Level: 190mm (fully compressed without spring)<br />
Fork Oil Type: 10W20<br />
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Fork Spring Length: 421.5mm (service limit 413mm)<br />
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Headlight Bulb: 12v H4 <br />
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Piston Diameter: 73.950-73.965mm (73.81mm)<br />
Piston/Cylinder Clearance: 0.035mm-0.062mm<br />
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Piston Ring Groove Clearance<br />
-Top Ring: 0.03-0.07mm (0.17mm)<br />
-Second Ring: 0.02-0.06mm (0.16mm)<br />
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Piston Ring Groove Width<br />
-Top Ring: 1.02-1.04mm (service limit 1.12mm)<br />
-Second Ring: 1.01-1.03mm (service limit 1.12mm)<br />
-Oil Ring: 2.51-2.53mm (service limit 2.6mm)<br />
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Piston Ring Thickness<br />
-Top Ring: 0.97-0.99mm (service limit 0.9mm)<br />
-Second Ring: 0.97-0.99mm (service limit 0.9mm)<br />
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Piston Ring End Gap<br />
-Top Ring: 0.2-0.35mm (service limit 0.7mm)<br />
-Second Ring: 0.2-0.35mm (service limit 0.7mm)<br />
-Oil Ring: 0.2mm-0.7mm (service limit 1mm)<br />
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Radiator Cap Relief Pressure: 14-18 psi<br />
Radiator Fan Switch On Temp: 201-212° F<br />
Radiator Fan Switch Off Temp: 196° F<br />
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Rocker Arm Inside Diameter: 12.5-12.518mm (service limit 12.55mm)<br />
Rocker Shaft Diameter: 12.466-12.484mm (service limit 12.44mm)<br />
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RPM Adjustment: 1,200-1,400 RPM <br />
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Spark Plug: NGKDPR9EA-9<br />
Spark Plug Gap: .032-.036" (0.8-0.9mm)<br />
Spark Plug Torque: 10 ft/lb<br />
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Taillight Bulb: 12v <span style="font-family: delicious;">1157 or </span><span style="font-family: delicious;">2357 </span><br />
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Throttle Free Play: 0.08-0.12" (2-3mm)<br />
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Tire Pressure<br />
-Up to 215lbs: 21 psi<br />
-215lbs to 330lbs: 25 psi<br />
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Turn Signal Bulbs: 12v 1156 <br />
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Valve Clearance Spec<br />
-Intake: 0.008-0.009" (0.20-0.24mm)<br />
-Exhaust: 0.008-0.009" (0.20-0.24mm)<br />
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Valve Guide Clearance<br />
-Intake: 0.02-0.08mm (0.24mm)<br />
-Exhaust: 0.06-0.12mm (0.26mm)<br />
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Valve Guide Inside Diameter<br />
-Intake: 5.500-5.512mm (service limit 5.58mm)<br />
-Exhaust: 5.500-5.512mm (service limit 5.58mm)<br />
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Valve Head Thickness<br />
-Intake: 0.5mm (service limit 0.25mm)<br />
-Exhaust: 1mm (service limit 0.7mm)<br />
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Valve Seat Surface Outside Diameter<br />
-Intake: 28.4-28.5mm<br />
-Exhaust: 24-24.2mm<br />
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Valve Seat Surface Width<br />
-Intake: 0.5-1.0mm<br />
-Exhaust: 0.5-1.0mm<br />
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Valve Seat Cutting Angle: 32°, 45°, 60°<br />
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Valve Spring Free Length<br />
-Inner: 36.3mm (service limit 35mm)<br />
-Outer: 39.2mm (service limit 37.5mm)<br />
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Valve Stem Diameter<br />
-Intake: 5.475-5.490mm (service limit 5.46mm)<br />
-Exhaust: 5.455-5.470mm (service limit 5.44mm)<br />
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<b>NOTE:</b> These specs are for reference only. Specifications can change from model year to model year so it is highly recommended that you consult the factory service manual for your particular year KLR250 before working on your bike.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-20313399061006770642010-10-21T16:07:00.013-04:002011-03-11T19:50:08.348-05:00Kawasaki KLR 250 Owners Manual PDF<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/TMCb6Bo_eEI/AAAAAAAAAK8/0HgIwbmAjwk/s1600/kawasaki_klr_250_owners_manual.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/TMCb6Bo_eEI/AAAAAAAAAK8/0HgIwbmAjwk/s1600/kawasaki_klr_250_owners_manual.jpg" /></a></div>Many new owners of the Kawasaki KLR250 dual sport motorcycle aren't lucky enough to have the original owners manual for their bike. While they could probably find a replacement manual on ebay we just found out that Kawasaki offers a free PDF version of the manual on their website. The link below is for merged version of the manual for the 2005 KLR250. Although that should be suitable for all years of the KLR, you can also check out Kawasaki's site <a href="http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/searchOM.php?name=KLR250&code=KL250&from_year=1985&to_year=&view_lang=EN&spec=OC&category=MC&page_no=1">here</a> for other years.<br />
<a href="http://www.mediafire.com/?yqsk1b7yipiddw7">Kawasaki KLR250 Owners Manual</a><br />
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-Thanks to TealKLR250 for the findUnknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-10929820202090523862010-10-04T02:10:00.010-04:002019-03-22T17:29:16.756-04:00Kawasaki KLR250 PDF Repair and Service Manuals<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/TKl1c5G-YCI/AAAAAAAAAK0/IOTDJWjrM64/s1600/kawasaki_klr_250_pdf_repair_service_manual.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524075557173485602" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/TKl1c5G-YCI/AAAAAAAAAK0/IOTDJWjrM64/s400/kawasaki_klr_250_pdf_repair_service_manual.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 388px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 300px;" /></a>If there is any one thing that new KLR250 owners ask the most it would be where to get a service or repair manual. While most motorcycle owners can easily order a new Clymer or Haynes repair manual for their bike the KLR 250 dual sport owners aren't so lucky. You see, Clymer and Haynes have never made a service manual for the KLR Jr, nor do they ever intend to. That leaves KLR250 enthusiasts with just one option, a factory service manual. Unfortunately even that isn't so easy because Kawasaki never made an all-in-one KLR250 specific repair manual. Instead KLR 250 owners are forced to buy a KLR600 "base" repair manual and also a KLR250 "supplement" manual. That wouldn't be so bad if both manuals were readily available and at a reasonable price but most owners are left to search ebay for months on end hoping to snatch one up. Thankfully this is no longer a problem as members of the KLR650.net forums have made both manuals available in PDF format! You can download them <strike>here</strike>.<br />
<b>Update:</b> It looks like the original link no longer works. An anonymous visitor posted <a href="https://www.manualslib.com/download/998165/Kawasaki-Klr-600.html">this link</a> in the comments for the KLR600 base manual. If anyone knows of a link to the KLR250 manual please post it below.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-26077327978257624002010-05-18T22:00:00.005-04:002013-04-05T05:43:19.316-04:00Kawasaki KLR250 Oil Filter Cross ReferenceWe thought that many of you would find this useful. Next time you're looking for an oil filter for your KLR250 motorcycle you won't have to goto the dealer to get one. Here is a cross reference list of oil filters that will fit the Kawasaki KLR 250. Be sure to double check that the filter is the correct one for your bike before use.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">KLR250 Oil Filter Cross Reference</span><br />
Kawasaki - 16099-004<br />
Amsoil - 24941<br />
Big A - 96950<br />
Big A - 96951<br />
Carquest - 89951<br />
Champ - P7027<br />
Emgo - 10-30000 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WP1CMS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000WP1CMS&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">(Buy)</a><br />
Fram - CH6070 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNJGYG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000CNJGYG&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">(Buy)</a><br />
Hastings - LF582<br />
HiFloFiltro - HF123<br />
K&N - KN-123 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E28N7G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000E28N7G&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">(Buy)</a><br />
Lunefiner - P7027<br />
Napa - 4950<br />
Napa - 4951<br />
Parts Unlimited - 16099-004 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00230I87C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00230I87C&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">(Buy)</a><br />
Purolator - ML16823 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E8P760/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000E8P760&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">(Buy)</a><br />
Purolator - ML16824<br />
Scotts (stainless) - 2148<br />
Warner - P7027<br />
Wix - 24951 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSD28C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000CSD28C&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">(Buy)</a><br />
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Note: Although the Fram CH6070 should fit in the KLR we have heard from a few owners who have experienced fitment issues with this filter due to it being a little too long. It seems as though Fram has quality control issues with these filters. If you are using this filter we strongly suggest you compare its length next to your current filter before installation.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-35566628781856830072010-04-16T17:31:00.061-04:002010-10-09T12:40:40.689-04:00Kawasaki KLR250 Parts Diagrams<img alt="Kawasaki KLR 250 Parts Diagrams Schematics" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460852812943172594" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jYs1Yro_I/AAAAAAAAADc/hE0TDPU1KMc/s400/klr250_parts_diagram.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 220px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 400px;" />The only thing worse than buying a used bike and finding that its missing parts is not being able to figure out exactly which parts are missing or how they install on the bike. That's where parts diagrams come in handy. Thankfully Kawasaki has released the parts diagrams for the KLR250 to the public so anyone can see how their bike is supposed to be assembled. Below you'll find all the part diagrams for the Kawasaki KLR250. Some part numbers may have changed from year to year so its best to check with your local dealer before order parts for your bike.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Kawasaki KLR 250 Parts Diagrams</span><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jcp18475I/AAAAAAAAADk/MZKKfGfUNBs/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_airbox.png" target="_blank">Airbox and Air Filter</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jdWk0nZrI/AAAAAAAAADs/h4BdI54XNiw/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_balancer.png" target="_blank">Balancer Assembly</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jdeZUwSbI/AAAAAAAAAD0/_QZ0FpAqzNk/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_brake+pedal.png" target="_blank">Brake Pedal</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jdlTW7TwI/AAAAAAAAAD8/6idEXTkMze4/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_cables.png" target="_blank">Cables</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jds_QY7eI/AAAAAAAAAEE/C4WTebo5O6A/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_camshafts_tensioner.png" target="_blank">Camshafts and Tensioner</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jdy6dJxeI/AAAAAAAAAEM/6zZ01J1nZ-8/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_carburetor.png" target="_blank">Carburetor</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jeOkUJywI/AAAAAAAAAEU/HsdAtL8MYqI/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_chassis_electrical.png" target="_blank">Chassis Electrical</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jeUx2T77I/AAAAAAAAAEc/k4S16VTfR7M/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_clutch.png" target="_blank">Clutch</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jebkBDC6I/AAAAAAAAAEk/thHTmNNJPiM/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_crankcase.png" target="_blank">Crankcase</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jeo2Yc4MI/AAAAAAAAAEs/hqKDUzvbiSk/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_crankshaft.png" target="_blank">Crankshaft</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jeu5sGNvI/AAAAAAAAAE0/ulZpA69VW9U/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_cylinder_head.png" target="_blank">Cylinder Head</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8je37F1KCI/AAAAAAAAAE8/mOD_ytp8lys/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_cylinder_pistons.png" target="_blank">Cylinder and Pistons</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfGAQByEI/AAAAAAAAAFM/10_anvdGa38/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_emissions.png" target="_blank">Emissions Equipment</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfLyddX6I/AAAAAAAAAFU/1RLOF7GHJVQ/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_engine_covers.png" target="_blank">Engine Covers</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfSLakZKI/AAAAAAAAAFc/MKpSomSRqjo/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_exhaust_system.png" target="_blank">Exhaust System</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfX8zTXII/AAAAAAAAAFk/xAqdjj9NS2k/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_fenders.png" target="_blank">Fenders</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfeKnWlbI/AAAAAAAAAFs/hL1v-uKfjPY/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_foot_pegs.png" target="_blank">Foot Pegs</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfjuCv79I/AAAAAAAAAF0/S6Vw_oAc6rc/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_forks.png" target="_blank">Forks</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfpxLD6YI/AAAAAAAAAF8/s-LboKYk0eQ/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_frame.png" target="_blank">Frame 1</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jfv5FCUGI/AAAAAAAAAGE/Yc7LgdQaa4I/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_frame_2.png%22%22" target="_blank">Frame 2</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jf10DdrII/AAAAAAAAAGM/pW-4W4csKTE/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_front_brake.png" target="_blank">Front Brake</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jf8CvTXqI/AAAAAAAAAGU/7z4g5-dHgvs/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_front_hub.png" target="_blank">Front Hub</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgC4S3CMI/AAAAAAAAAGc/HsnSVFLBPM4/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_fuel_tank.png" target="_blank">Fuel Tank</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgJlzkeLI/AAAAAAAAAGk/bOZ1hFqRikU/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_gauges.png" target="_blank">Gauges</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgQFA4QeI/AAAAAAAAAGs/-d3rJLWwW08/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_generator.png" target="_blank">Generator</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgWQ40HBI/AAAAAAAAAG0/5WF4fMzPIDo/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_handlebars.png" target="_blank">Handlebars</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgc4i_cEI/AAAAAAAAAG8/6j7VhUFnsr4/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_headlight.png" target="_blank">Headlight</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgjIaWxWI/AAAAAAAAAHE/ZW8th2JCbm8/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_ignition_switch.png" target="_blank">Ignition Switch</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgqwcVwFI/AAAAAAAAAHM/cmrkuVryRoc/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_ignition_system.png" target="_blank">Ignition System</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jgxuQR_lI/AAAAAAAAAHU/ZS00FGtAOkE/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_kick_starter.png" target="_blank">Kick Starter</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jg31-a9FI/AAAAAAAAAHc/iKYfp6L95Vg/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_master_cylinder.png" target="_blank">Master Cylinder</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhATS6-OI/AAAAAAAAAHk/xrSCRDjxkfc/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_oil_pump.png" target="_blank">Oil Pump</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhG-4aLSI/AAAAAAAAAHs/uPm3Rptb42Q/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_radiators.png" target="_blank">Radiators</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhMSoVFnI/AAAAAAAAAH0/xUvgGnKd9hg/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_rear+shock.png" target="_blank">Rear Shock</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhT3dtrFI/AAAAAAAAAH8/uT8qtQL-am0/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_rear_hub_brake.png" target="_blank">Rear Hub and Brake</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhcJaHdvI/AAAAAAAAAIE/hDgaNjBblqg/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_rear_suspension.png" target="_blank">Rear Suspension</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhh5wpBrI/AAAAAAAAAIM/KUAWaXp3qtw/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_seat.png" target="_blank">Seat</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhooKUtlI/AAAAAAAAAIU/JFryrSbWWCw/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_shift_forks_drums.png" target="_blank">Shift Forks and Drums</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jhu6IPdNI/AAAAAAAAAIc/YilROUCv1Y8/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_shifter.png" target="_blank">Shifter</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jh1K0S_6I/AAAAAAAAAIk/aV1s6IZQQ3c/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_side+covers.png" target="_blank">Side Covers</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jh9n7Aa-I/AAAAAAAAAIs/YTgdklj3TPM/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_side_stand.png" target="_blank">Side Stand</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jiFhEEiII/AAAAAAAAAI0/fJDBHd1VO4A/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_swingarm.png" target="_blank">Swingarm</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jiMJ4_j9I/AAAAAAAAAI8/m_9BMOjhlwc/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_taillight.png" target="_blank">Tail Light</a><br />
-<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jiS3hEiiI/AAAAAAAAAJE/uKiWPrTwG7s/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_tool_bag.png" target="_blank">Tool Bag</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jiY4XRW6I/AAAAAAAAAJM/v9W3cn_ozng/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_transmission.png" target="_blank">Transmission</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jih58hpPI/AAAAAAAAAJU/9OKxSMY-a3M/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_front_rear_turn_signals.png" target="_blank">Turn Signals</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jixnC78_I/AAAAAAAAAJk/3NwLn4BDOJE/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_valve_cover.png" target="_blank">Valve Cover</a><br />
-<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8jinj5o-rI/AAAAAAAAAJc/LHacxHCR0Xw/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_valves.png" target="_blank">Valves</a><br />
-<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8ji3qYPMAI/AAAAAAAAAJs/6AxvPqZ-4AE/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_water_pump.png" target="_blank">Water Pump</a><br />
-<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8ji9zGRAOI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/u7nLRtsmJ78/s1600/klr250_parts_diagram_wheels_tires.png" target="_blank">Wheels and Tires</a><br />
<br />
Imaged Source: KawasakiUnknownnoreply@blogger.com52tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-55504327111865802042010-04-14T18:19:00.037-04:002013-04-05T05:45:50.383-04:00Kawasaki KLR250 FAQ<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8ZAIna8zCI/AAAAAAAAADM/7z7KflzOHzQ/s1600/klr250red.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 319px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8ZAIna8zCI/AAAAAAAAADM/7z7KflzOHzQ/s400/klr250red.jpg" border="0" alt="2002 Kawasaki KLR 250 KLR250 Frequently Asked Questions"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460122114998455330" /></a><span style="font-weight:bold;">What was changed from 85-05?</span><br />
For the most part the KLR 250 has remained the same throughout its life. There have been numerous paint and plastic color changes as we documented <a href="http://klr250.blogspot.com/2010/02/kawsaki-klr250-paint-and-plastic-color.html">here</a>. There were also a few changes to the engine such as the left crankshaft bearing being replaced with a more durable one betwen '89-'90 and a few changes to the intake camshaft profile.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;">Where can I get a manual</span><br />
Sadly the two major service manual publishers, Clymer and Haynes, have never created a manual for the KLR250. For some engine work you could use the manual they made for the Mojave ATV but that won't do you much good when you need to work on the rest of the bike. The only true option is a service manual by Kawasaki. Unfortunately Kawi didn't make things easy (or cheap!) for us KLR250 owners as they require you buy two of their manuals to get full coverage on this bike. The KLR600 manual (part #99924-1050-01) is known as the base manual and includes the majority of information needed for the KLR250. However you'll also need the KLR250 supplement manual (part #99924-1051-15) which covers more KLR250 specific topics. You can purchase these manuals for $34.95 each straight from Kawasaki.com or you might want to keep an eye on ebay. EDIT: Thanks to a few members of the KLR650.net forums both KLR250 repair manuals are available in PDF format <a href="http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=84009" target="_blank">here</a>. Edit: Sorry but it looks like the file was taken down<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;">How fast do they go?</span><br />
A good running KLR250 will happily go about 70 mph for extended lengths of time. With that said some owners have reported being able to go 90+ mph under the right conditions.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;">What kind of fuel mileage can I expect?</span><br />
The KLR250 is said to get around 70 mpg but that can vary drastically depending on the speed, rider weight, tire choice, riding conditions, jetting, etc. You'll find most owners get around 55-65 mpg.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;">What aftermarket parts are available? </span><br />
Unfortunately there aren't many aftermarket parts and accessories made for the KLR250. Below is a list of what parts we could find.<br />
<ul><li>Racks: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TER1GE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009TER1GE&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">Moose Racing</a> makes a strong steel rack for the KLR250. <a href="http://www.dual-star.com/" target="_blank">Dual Star</a> and <a href="Cycleracks.com" target="_blank">Cycleracks.com</a> (<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S9UdvMD88OI/AAAAAAAAAKM/D6DpCQIQBQA/s1600/klr250cyclerack.jpg" target="_blank">pic</a>) both make good rear racks for the KLR250. <a href="http://www.turbocity.com/default.php?cPath=69_75" target="_blank">Turbo City</a> also makes a range of racks and guards for this bike.</li><br />
<li>Exhaust: A while back Supertrapps made an exhaust for the KLR 250 but we have been notified by them that it is no longer available. The only two out of the box options are from FMF, with their Q4 exhaust system, and a "CZR" brand exhaust system (<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S9Uf1QEo8zI/AAAAAAAAAKU/gwlc3HiEPiU/s1600/czr_exhaust.JPG" target="_blank">pic</a>) that is sold on ebay.</li><br />
<li>Skid Plate: <a href="http://www.utahsportcycle.com" target="_blank">Utah Sports Cycle</a> makes the aluminum Ricochet skid plate. (<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S9Ucq_EGkNI/AAAAAAAAAKE/XxJAGpUe2Ro/s1600/klr250skidplate.gi" target="_blank">pic</a>) As far as we know this is the only aftermarket skid plate available to replace the KLR250's weak stock piece.</li><br />
<li>Handlebars: The KLR250 uses regular 7/8" handlebars. That means that the majority of motorcycle handlebars made will fit on this bike. However handlebars do come in many different bends so you'll want to find one that best fits your needs. From our experience the cr-high bend handlebars are very close to the same dimensions as the stockers. However some owners find that the atv-high bend bars are taller giving a more upright riding position.</li><br />
<li>Fuel Tank: IMS makes a slightly larger plastic fuel tank for the 250. It is 3.2 gallons compared to the 2.9 gallon stocker.</li><br />
<li>Suspension: <a href="http://www.progressivesuspension.com/prodSearchResults.aspx?yearID=2005&makeID=41&modelID=447" target="_blank">Progressive Suspension</a> makes upgraded springs for the forks and a spring for the rear. <a href="http://motocd.com/" target="_blank">Cogent Dynamics</a> also makes a rear shock. Although the KLR250 has a relatively low seat height to begin with <a href="http://www.koubalink.com/" target="_blank">Koubalink</a> makes lower links for those who are altitude challenged.</li><br />
<li>Other: Although there aren't many engine upgrades available specifically for the KLR250, <a href="http://www.cycleworksracing.net/mojave.htm" target="_blank">Cycle Works Racing</a> makes numerous upgrades for the Mojave ATV which will also fit the KLR including big bore kits and cams.</li><br />
</ul><span style="font-weight:bold;">What jets come with the KLR250, what ones should I use, where do i get them?</span><br />
The US version of the KLR250 comes with either a 118 or 120 main jet and a 35 pilot jet. From the factory the KLR250 is jetted fairly lean so even if you aren't planning any mods its a good idea to change to a slightly richer main jet. For stock exhaust/airboxes most people will stick with the stock 35 main jet and upgrade to a 122 main. For modified or aftermarket exhaust systems and cut airboxes you'll probably want to go up to a 38 or even 40 pilot while using a 125 or 127 main jet. Just remember that what jets you use really depend on your particular situation, which exhaust you used, how much you hacked up the airbox, and what altitude you ride at. Just because a 127 works for a guy at sea level doesn't mean you'll need that large of a main jet at 12,000 feet.<br />
<br />
As for where to get the jets you have multiple options. You can check with your local Kawasaki dealer, or order them online. We have personally ordered from Jetsrus.com and had the proper jets delivered in just a matter of days. Many recommend Ronayers.com as well.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;">Is it true that the Mojave ATV shares the same engine/tranny?</span><br />
Yes and no. The KLR and Mojave have very similar engines but there are distinct differences. The most obvious is the transmission, while the KLR has a six speed tranny, the Mojave has a five speed with reverse. The heads of the engines are basically identical but the parts used in each vary from year to year. Check out the camshaft part numbers below and you'll see what I mean. Not only did Kawasaki use different cams in the KLR through the years but the Mojave had its own specific cams as well.<br />
<br />
KLR250 Cam Part Numbers<br />
-Intake<br />
85-86 #12044-1351<br />
87-92 #12044-1119<br />
93-05 #12044-1351 <br />
-Exhaust<br />
85-05 #12044-5006<br />
<br />
Mojave ATV Cam Part Numbers<br />
-Intake<br />
87-93 #12044-1181<br />
94-04 #12044-1348<br />
-Exhaust<br />
87-93 #12044-5007<br />
94-95 #12044-5009<br />
96-04 #12044-1427<br />
<span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />
Whats this I hear about an oil screen?</span><br />
The oil screen is located behind the right side engine cover. It catches large debris that would normally get into the oil pump. It is strongly suggested that you check this screen because some owners have reported finding large amounts of rubber gasket debris clogging up the screen which can result in oil starvation. To get to the screen you'll need to drain the engine oil and antifreeze, then remove the brake pedal, water pump cover, water pump impeller, clutch cable, clutch lever (that goes into the case) and finally the right side cover. You'll find the screen located toward the bottom of the engine under the clutch. Removing the side cover usually requires a new gasket for the cover and water pump.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-53691908899722338422010-04-14T16:20:00.035-04:002010-10-09T12:44:30.320-04:00Kawasaki KLR 250 Carb Cleaning Information<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8YrBjzO2bI/AAAAAAAAACk/bVbhkq2PquQ/s1600/keihin_klr250_carb.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="Bottom View of the KLR 250 CVK34 carburetor showing the main and pilot jets" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460098904023292338" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8YrBjzO2bI/AAAAAAAAACk/bVbhkq2PquQ/s400/keihin_klr250_carb.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 310px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 400px;" /></a>If you were to browse any KLR250 related forum the most common ailment you'd hear owners complain about is some type of starting or running problem, usually carburetor related. These problems aren't biased to just the KLR, any carbureted bike can experience them. They're usually due to dirt in the fuel clogging a jet, or varish gumming everything up. The only solution is to remove the carb from the bike and give it a thorough cleaning and inspection. Thats what this article is meant to do, show you the basics of the KLR250 carburetor and give a quick run through on how to clean it.We won't get into how a carb works, but if you're interested in learning more check out <a href="http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm">The Care and Feeding of the Keihn Carb</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8Ys97v25XI/AAAAAAAAACs/uh9q_4664W4/s1600/klr_carb_diagram.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="Kawasaki KLR 250 carburetor diagram cvk34" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460101040755369330" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8Ys97v25XI/AAAAAAAAACs/uh9q_4664W4/s400/klr_carb_diagram.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 400px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 335px;" /></a>The KLR 250 comes with a Keihn CVK34 carburetor. Don't let the parts diagram to the left fool you, CVK34 is a very simple design. To clean the carb you'll need to remove it from the bike. Probably one of the more painful processes whenever you have to work on your bike's carb is trying to get it out of the bike. At the very least it'll require removing the side plastics, seat, and fuel tank, though we have found that unbolting the exhaust muffler and the top bolts of the subframe (the part the seat bolts to) make things easier by allowing you to pivot the entire subframe backwards giving better access to the carb. Once you've gotten to the carb follow these steps to disconnect and remove it.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Removal:</span><br />
1. Turn off the fuel petcock on the fuel tank<br />
2. Place a container under the fuel drain hose. That is the hose which leads from the fuel drain screw to just in front of the rear wheel.<br />
3. Open drain screw, located on the bottom right side of the carb (on the float bowl) and allow all of the fuel to drain from the carb.<br />
4. Remove the fuel line from the left side of the carb (black rubber line from the fuel tank)<br />
5. Remove the throttle cables, one screw holds the bracket in place.<br />
6. Carefully unscrew the plastic choke cable nut from the left side of the carburetor. This is where the choke cable screws into the carb. The plastic nut is very fragile so be careful!<br />
7. Loosen the clamp on the front side of the carb holding it to the engine.<br />
8. Remove the rear carb to airbox tube<br />
<br />
OK now you should have the carb out of the bike and holding it in your hands. Next step is tearing it down while being very careful not to lose or damage anything in the process.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8Y1GDqxWSI/AAAAAAAAAC0/ivYnhu2qRBc/s1600/klr_250_carb.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="KLR 250 Carburetor Picture Photo" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460109976413493538" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8Y1GDqxWSI/AAAAAAAAAC0/ivYnhu2qRBc/s400/klr_250_carb.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 400px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Teardown:</span><br />
1. Remove the four screws on the plastic piece on the top of the carb. Underneath there should be a diaphragm, spring, slide, needle and white piece of plastic. Make a mental note of the order of those parts (slide, needle, white plastic piece, spring) and remove them. Be careful not to tear the rubber diaphragm.<br />
2. Remove the float bowl. That is the metal bowl on the bottom of the carb, held in place with four screws. Be careful when removing it as the float and needle valve can fall out. Make a note of the position of the float and needle and remove them.<br />
3. Next step is to unscrew the main and pilot jets from the carb body. (see diagram above for their location)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pilot Screw Info:</span><br />
The KLR's carb has a pilot mixture screw which controls the amount of fuel that enters the engine while at idle. However to stop owners from fiddling with it Kawasaki covered the screw with a small tin cap. The only way to get to this screw is to carefully drill a small hole in the tin cap and then pry it off with a small screw driver. The utmost care must be taken so you don't screw all of the way through to the pilot screw itself. Once the screw is accessible then you can remove it. There should be an o-ring, washer, and spring on the end of it, note their order and set them to the side.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Cleaning:</span><br />
Thats about all you need to disassemble. Wasn't that hard was it? Now its time to clean everything. Just about everyone has their own way of doing this but what we suggest is buying a few bottles of carb cleaner (the kind you pour in your car's fuel tank) and a couple cans of spray type carb cleaner that have the small plastic tubes on them. Fill a small container with the carb cleaner (bottle type) and soak all of the metal parts in it, including the carburetor body. Note: Do not use either carb cleaner on any plastic or rubber parts, it'll eat them. What you're trying to accomplish is the removal of all varnish from inside the carb body, and jets. After they've soaked for a couple of hours its time to spray out all of the small passages in the carb body, and the tiny holes in jets with the spray type carb cleaner and then follow it up with a blast of compressed air. You're trying to make sure there is nothing clogging up those small holes, you leave one grain of sand behind and you'll be doing this again so be diligent! By this point you should have a sparkling clean carburetor, all that is left to do is reassemble everything.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Reassembly:</span><br />
There isn't much to say here, just reassemble everything in the reverse order you took it apart. When the time comes to re-install the pilot screw make sure the o-ring, washer, and spring are in place and screw it in all of the way and back out two full turns. (further adjustment may be needed but this is a good starting point) When you re-install the slide components be careful not to pinch or tear the rubber diaphragm.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8Y6WGGDQaI/AAAAAAAAAC8/VEtC7FaZDCU/s1600/carbfloatlevel.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460115749500830114" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8Y6WGGDQaI/AAAAAAAAAC8/VEtC7FaZDCU/s400/carbfloatlevel.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 400px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 306px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Float Adjustment:</span><br />
While you have the carb apart and cleaned this is the perfect time to check the float height adjustment. Simply install the float and needle valve onto the carb body and hold it as shown in the diagram to the left. You want the needle to be lying on its seat but not pushed down. To check for proper adjustment measure from the float bowl mating surface, and the top of the float. (4) The adjustment should be 17mm. If you find its not 17mm then you correct it by ever so slightly bending the float bowl tang with a pair of needle nose pliers. (see arrow in <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8Y7vYZ9CwI/AAAAAAAAADE/iustLjYyU1g/s1600/carbfloatlevel2.jpg" target="_blank">this picture</a>) Small adjustment result in big changes in the float height, so go easy. Once you've got it to 17mm you're all set.<br />
<br />
Thats it! Now re-install the carb back in the bike and you're good to go!<br />
<br />
Image Sources: <a href="http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm">Gadjetjq.com</a> - <a href="http://www.klr650.net/">KLR650.net</a> - <a href="http://www.kawasaki.com/">Kawasaki.com</a><br />
Note: The top image is of a CVK40. While it is a different carburetor than the CVK34 in the KLR 250 their layouts are almost identical.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com55tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-17872754169285481572010-04-14T15:34:00.004-04:002016-02-05T13:11:47.557-05:00KLR 250 Wiring Diagram<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8YdsO0moCI/AAAAAAAAACc/8JIHNmBxJ5E/s1600/klr250d.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 263px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S8YdsO0moCI/AAAAAAAAACc/8JIHNmBxJ5E/s400/klr250d.JPG" border="0" alt="KLR250 KLR 250 wire wiring diagram schematic" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460084243963486242"></a>Trying to figure out why your KLR250's headlights no longer work or your turn signals stopped blinking? One of the most commonly asked for items in any KLR forum is for a wiring diagram. Its not that the KLRs had a lot of electrical problems, rather its more about some of these bikes being over 20 years old. In that time connections corrode and switches wear out, and the only way to diagnose the electrical bug your bike has is by using a wire diagram. Anyway, enough talking, just click the image to the left to enlarge it.<br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-8811797526354789292010-02-03T20:06:00.034-05:002010-10-09T12:44:49.355-04:00Kawsaki KLR250 Paint and Plastic Color CombinationsLike we <a href="http://klr250.blogspot.com/2010/01/welcome.html">mentioned</a> earlier Kawasaki changed very few things on the KLR250 during its lifespan. The most prominent change was the varying paint and plastic color combinations. When trying to do research for the color combinations for each year of the KLR 250 we had a hard time finding much solid information as it varied from source to source. Wikipedia had a pretty comprehensive list but it didnt seem to match up with other sources. With that said here is our list of the color combos for each year. If you have more information on what we have right or wrong please let us know.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-1985 and 1986 Lime Green or White/Blue</span><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2onOhXyx3I/AAAAAAAAAA0/6wo-ZJdXXyM/s1600-h/1985_klr_250_lime_green.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="lime green klr 250 1985" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434199030805743474" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2onOhXyx3I/AAAAAAAAAA0/6wo-ZJdXXyM/s400/1985_klr_250_lime_green.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Thomas Perley Doon's 1985 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/368434/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2onp5gyzHI/AAAAAAAAAA8/qQ1Fw38K2-Y/s1600-h/1986_klr_250_blue_white.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="blue and white klr250 1986" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434199501142412402" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2onp5gyzHI/AAAAAAAAAA8/qQ1Fw38K2-Y/s400/1986_klr_250_blue_white.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Randy's 1986 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/1122599/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-1987 White/Blue/Red</span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2opB7L-JPI/AAAAAAAAABE/gvrzjuWrAsE/s1600-h/1987_klr_250_red_white_blue.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="red white and blue patriotic kawi klr250 1987" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434201013420434674" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2opB7L-JPI/AAAAAAAAABE/gvrzjuWrAsE/s400/1987_klr_250_red_white_blue.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 265px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Tom Bakewell's 1987 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/712108/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-1988 to 1989 White/Blue/Green</span><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2oq02_wryI/AAAAAAAAABM/faXK0V_8VRw/s1600-h/1989_klr_250_white_blue_green.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="white blue and green klr250 klr 250 1988 1989" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434202987980435234" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2oq02_wryI/AAAAAAAAABM/faXK0V_8VRw/s400/1989_klr_250_white_blue_green.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Triston Rynott's 1989 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/030438/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-1990 to 1993 White/Light Blue</span><br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2ordHWGPeI/AAAAAAAAABU/c0t2C4jdY_o/s1600-h/1991_klr_250_white_blue.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="1990 1991 1992 1993 klr 250" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434203679563857378" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2ordHWGPeI/AAAAAAAAABU/c0t2C4jdY_o/s400/1991_klr_250_white_blue.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Koop's 1991 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/233521/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-1994 to 1996 Teal/Purple</span> -These years were often referred to as the Barbie years because of the odd teal and purple paint scheme which looks like something Ken and Barbie would ride.<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2osDmR8VyI/AAAAAAAAABc/2m6SZDCKYAU/s1600-h/1995_klr_250_barbie_purple_teal.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="barbie purple teal klr250 1994 1995 1996" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434204340702959394" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2osDmR8VyI/AAAAAAAAABc/2m6SZDCKYAU/s400/1995_klr_250_barbie_purple_teal.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Ben's 1995 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/1761126/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-1997 to 1999 Dark Bluish Green</span><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2osab9uXhI/AAAAAAAAABk/LmqK4_fWFIQ/s1600-h/1998_klr_blue_green.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="blue green klr250 1997 1998" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434204733070794258" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2osab9uXhI/AAAAAAAAABk/LmqK4_fWFIQ/s400/1998_klr_blue_green.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Keith MacDermott's 1998 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/499295/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-2000 Olive Green/Black</span><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2osrgISMlI/AAAAAAAAABs/kygwjl42y6M/s1600-h/2000_klr_250_olive_green.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="2000 army olive green klr250" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434205026246603346" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2osrgISMlI/AAAAAAAAABs/kygwjl42y6M/s400/2000_klr_250_olive_green.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Zachary's 2000 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/1655067/">source</a>)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-2001 to 2002 Silver/Olive Green</span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2os5WKQCeI/AAAAAAAAAB0/P3OTxdXnuZ0/s1600-h/2001_klr_250_silver_green.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="2001 2002 klr250" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434205264088664546" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2os5WKQCeI/AAAAAAAAAB0/P3OTxdXnuZ0/s400/2001_klr_250_silver_green.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 273px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">-2003 Black/Olive Green</span><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2otDy2c9sI/AAAAAAAAAB8/cZ6hYpNSHgY/s1600-h/2003_klr_250_black_green.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="2003 black and green klr250" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434205443588945602" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2otDy2c9sI/AAAAAAAAAB8/cZ6hYpNSHgY/s400/2003_klr_250_black_green.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Michael Ebersole's 2003 KLR250 (<a href="http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/052726/">source</a>)<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />
-2004 to 2005 Black/Red</span><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2otV8iA-0I/AAAAAAAAACE/iB1Nfz40-x4/s1600-h/2005_klr_250_black_red.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="red and black klr 250" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434205755425225538" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2otV8iA-0I/AAAAAAAAACE/iB1Nfz40-x4/s400/2005_klr_250_black_red.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<br />
*All images copyright of their respective owners. Most images courtesy of <a href="http://www.bikepics.com/">Bikepics.com</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-70336639167230785672010-02-01T18:49:00.017-05:002010-04-14T16:20:15.321-04:00KLR250 Chain AdjustmentOne of the most important items that need to be maintained the KLR250, or any motorcycle for that matter, is the drive chain. Failure to clean, lubricate, and adjust the chain at regular intervals can result in premature wear of the chain and sprockets. A worn or misadjusted drive chain can break or slip off the sprockets causing the rear wheel to lock up sending the bike out of control. In this article we're going to look at the basics of adjusting the chain of your KLR250.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2dpMkfijPI/AAAAAAAAAAc/IMtIeO0TQYk/s1600-h/chainadjustment.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 158px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2dpMkfijPI/AAAAAAAAAAc/IMtIeO0TQYk/s400/chainadjustment.jpg" border="0" alt="Kawasaki KLR250 Chain Adjustment"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5433427140121103602" /></a>To the left is a diagram that shows the chain and sprockets. The part in the middle is the swingarm, which is what the rear wheel is attached to. On the front part of the swingarm there is a plastic chain guard that is held on with one bolt. That bolt is where you'll check for slack in the chain which will tell you whether it is adjusted properly or not.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />Items Needed:</span><br />-Ft/lb torque wrench<br />-New cotter pin<br />-Basic hand tools<br /><br />According to the Kawasaki KLR250 owners manual the correct way to check for proper chain slack begins with placing the bike on its side stand without a driver/passenger on the bike. Because the chain can wear unevenly you should try rotating the rear wheel (WARNING: Watch your fingers by the chain!) until you come to the part where the chain slack is tightest. Then to check for proper slack locate the swingarm guard bolt and directly under it pull the chain up toward the swingarm. The space between the chain and the swingarm should be between 0-5mm or 0-0.2" Check the diagram above for more clarity.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2ocm4bcE9I/AAAAAAAAAAs/HYRwRTMMw4I/s1600-h/klr250_chain_adjuster.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 281px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2ocm4bcE9I/AAAAAAAAAAs/HYRwRTMMw4I/s400/klr250_chain_adjuster.jpg" border="0" alt="Kawasaki KLR 250 Chain Adjustment Adjusters"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434187354684003282" /></a>If the chain is adjusted properly then you're all set, though don't forget to clean and lubricate the chain. If not then its time to make some adjustments. Adjusting the chain is a fairly straight forward process. The rear wheel is held to the swingarm by a long axle with a large nut at the end. That nut is secured in place with a cotter pin. Using a pair of pliers remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut until you can just barely move the adjusters on the axle. (see picture) If you take a close look at the adjusters you'll see that they have numbers on them. The higher numbers represent a tighter chain, lower numbers represent a looser chain. All you have to do is turn those adjusters until you see that the chain adjustment is correct, being sure that the adjusters on both sides are on the same number in relation to the metal pin they press against. Failure to make sure both adjusters are in the same position will result in the chain derailing. <br /><br />Once you've gotten the chain adjusted correctly all that is left to finish up this project is to tighten the axle nut to 69 ft/lbs with a torque wrench and insert a new cotter pin. Before installing the new cotter pin its best to check the chain slack one last time and you're good to go! FYI: Kawasaki recommends checking chain slack every 600 miles.<br /><br />Note: Eagle eye visitors have pointed out that my adjusters are on upside down. This is the way they were when I purchased the bike. When checking my rear bearings I decided to change them back to the stock setup and found that it was much harder to keep the adjusters in place while tightening the axle nut so I changed them back to this configuration. I can only assume that is why the previous owner set them this way. It works for me so...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-68127329929788887242010-01-31T05:08:00.020-05:002013-04-05T05:36:53.153-04:00Kawasaki KLR250 SpecificationsBelow are the general specifications for the Kawasaki KLR250. These specs were referenced from an owners manual of an '87 KLR250 though most should be the same for all years.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Dimensions</span><br />
Overall Length: 2,140mm (84.25")<br />
Overall Width: 855mm (33.66")<br />
Overall Height: 1,210mm (47.64")<br />
Seat Height: 855mm (33.7 in)<br />
Wheelbase: 270mm (10.63")<br />
Weight: 258lbs dry, 293lbs wet<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />
Engine</span><br />
Type: DOHC, single cylinder, 4 stroke, liquid cooled<br />
Displacement: 249cc (15.2 cubic inches)<br />
Bore/Stroke: 74mm x 58mm (2.91" x 2.28")<br />
Compression Ratio: 11:1<br />
Carburetor: Keihn CVK34<br />
Ignition System: CDI<br />
Ignition Timing: 10° BTDC @ 1,300rpm<br />
Spark Plug: NGK DPR9EA-9, Champion RA6HC <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSD6SS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000CSD6SS&linkCode=as2&tag=rcncom-20">(Buy)</a><br />
Lubrication System: Wet sump forced lubrication<br />
Engine Oil: SAE 10W40 (recommended for most riding conditions), 10W50, 20W40, or 20W50<br />
Engine Oil Capacity: 2.1 quarts<br />
Coolant Capacity: 1.6 quarts<br />
Power Output: 28 horsepower 1985–1989, 22 horsepower 1990–2005<br />
Starting Method: Manual Kick Start<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />
Transmission</span><br />
Type: 6 speed, constant mesh, return shift<br />
Clutch: Multi disc wet<br />
Final Drive: O-ring chain<br />
Primary Reduction Ratio: 2.913 (67/23)<br />
Final Reduction Ratio: 2.933 (44/15)<br />
Overall Drive Ratio: 7.731 (top gear)<br />
1st Gear Ratio: 3.000 (30/10)<br />
2st Gear Ratio: 2.000 (30/15)<br />
3st Gear Ratio: 1.500 (27/18)<br />
4st Gear Ratio: 1.250 (25/20)<br />
5st Gear Ratio: 1.050 (21/20)<br />
6st Gear Ratio: 0.904 (19/21)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Frame</span><br />
Castor: 28.5°<br />
Trail: 117mm (4.61")<br />
Tire Size Front: 3.00-21<br />
Tire Size Rear: 4.60-17<br />
Fuel Tank Capacity: 2.9 gallons<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Suspension</span><br />
Front: Air adjustable hydraulic telescopic fork<br />
Rear: UNI-TRAK single shock system<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Brakes:</span><br />
Front: Hydraulic disc<br />
Rear: Manual drum<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Electrical</span><br />
Battery: 12V<br />
Headlight: 12V 60/55W H4 Type<br />
Tail/Brake Light: 12V 8/27W 1157 Type<br />
Gauges: Speedometer, Tachometer, TemperatureUnknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1470977745393566479.post-38985748482271060012010-01-31T03:50:00.016-05:002010-04-18T16:05:40.168-04:00Kawasaki KLR 250 General Information<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2ou9WpZPSI/AAAAAAAAACU/t_SnNPyPB2Y/s1600-h/klr250.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 315px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TsstH_ZksZI/S2ou9WpZPSI/AAAAAAAAACU/t_SnNPyPB2Y/s400/klr250.jpg" border="0" alt="The Kawasaki KLR250 KLR 250"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5434207531962023202" /></a>Welcome to the unofficial Kawasaki KLR250 information website. If you've just stumbled upon this site you may be asking what a KLR250 is, otherwise maybe you already know what it is and are just looking for more information. Well you've found the right spot. The Kawasaki KLR250 is a dual sport motorcycle that was produced between 1985 and 2005. A dual sport motorcycle is one that very much resembles an ordinary dirtbike but is completely street legal. Many riders choose to go with a dual sport, also known as a dual purpose, because it not only allows them to ride their bike back and forth to work, but also take on interesting offroad terrain when the desire hits them.<br /><br />The KLR250 is powered by a dual overhead cam (DOHC) 250cc 4-stroke gasoline engine that runs through a six speed manual transmission to a chain final drive. It was produced by Kawasaki in Japan and has been exported to many parts of the world including the United States, Canada, and Europe. During its lifetime it served as a reconnaissance and messenger vehicle for the US Military. Since the military needed a vehicle with a long service life with plenty of available replacement parts Kawasaki chose to keep the little 250 vastly unchanged over the years except for different paint and plastic color combinations. The military version was much like the civilian version except for a few subtle changes including a larger fuel tank, engine case guards, hand guards, tail racks, and camouflage paint schemes.<br /><br />The KLR250 shares the same basic motor design as its ATV sibling the Kawasaki Mojave KSF250. Although the engines share the same head components the KLR has a six speed transmission as opposed to the KSF's five speed with reverse. Thankfully Kawasaki chose to make these two creatures so similar because although there are very few aftermarket upgrades for the KLR, the aftermarket industry has made many components for the Mojave including jet kits, and high performance camshafts that can be used on the KLR.<br /><br />During it's 21 year lifespan the KLR has shared the Kawasaki dual sport production line with its big brothers the KLR600 and KLR650. While its larger siblings are chosen more for their highway speed comfort the 250's lighter weight and lower power make it better suited for tight trails and non-highway use.<br /><br />Like any motorcycle the KLR250 has its good points and its week points. Although this bike is very much like a tractor, it just keeps going and going, it can succumb to engine damage if not maintained properly. The three keys to keeping the KLR Jr, as some like to call it, going for a long time are; changing the oil frequently, keeping an eye on the valve adjustments, and making sure the automatic cam chain adjuster is working correctly. Stay on top of all three and your KLR will live a long happy life.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1