Don't you wish you could jump in a time machine and go back to the days when your beloved Kawasaki KLR250 was brand spanking new? Wouldn't it be awesome to goto the local dealer and see it sitting there all shiny and glowing in the showroom? What about being able to pick up an original KLR250 brochure? Well we can't help you with the time machine but if you'd like to see that brochure you're in luck thanks to a member of
Flickr. Check it out at the link below!
1987 Kawasaki KLR250 Sales Brochure
I just purchased a 1989 klr 250, will it hurt to take the baffle out of the tail pipe, I want a deeper sound, will I need to make ajustments to carb?
ReplyDeleteYou will definitely need to rejet the carb otherwise the bike will run too lean.
ReplyDeleteThanks mike, what do I need to do, I am just a beginner on a carb, what size jets do u suggest and where should I set the air fuel mixture, I think 4 turns out is close to standard aint it?
ReplyDeleteDutton: What jets you use depends on what mods you've done and the altitude you ride at. If you're keeping the airbox stock and just gutting the exhaust you might be able to get away with a 122 main jet and a 38 pilot, though you will probably want to go with a 125 to be on the safe side. On the other hand if you plan on opening the airbox up you'll want to step up to an even larger main/pilot. Most guys who have modded airboxes and exhausts go with a 125-127 main and 38 or 40 pilot.
ReplyDeleteYou'll also want to shim the needle up with a #4 washer. That mod is known as the 22 cent mod in case you want to google it for more info.
As for the mixture screw, the stock setting is 1 3/4 turns out, but 2 1/2 turns is what most recommend.
BTW On my bike I've gutted the exhaust but it was really loud so I made a baffle for it. Now it's louder than stock but not deafening. I've also removed the airbox snorkel but I didn't go as far as drilling holes in the airbox as some do. With those mods I'm running a 125 main and 38 pilot and it runs great.
ReplyDeleteJust wanted to add that if you goto this site there is a good article on breaking down your carb. Its really helpful if you've never done it before. http://myural.com/keihin_32cvk_disassembly.htm
ReplyDeleteThis site is great I appreciate all the info you all give me, I have another question if u dont mind, is ther anywhere to get a replacement fuel petcock for a klr 250 1989 model, they are pretty expensive, I read some where that a guy told about a replacement but I cant remember wher it is. said it was about 11 dollars but u wouod have to plug up the vacuun side of it, can u help me out?
ReplyDeleteI believe the part you are referring to is the fuel petcock from the Yamaha TW200. There is more info here: http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=10021
ReplyDelete^If you do go with the TW200 petcock can you let me know how it goes? I'd like to post something on the blog about it, once I hear confirmation that it works that is.
ReplyDeleteI ordered the tw200 petcock, Looks the same, so I will let u know when I get it installed and test it, alot cheaper also. any alternatives to the radiator drain plug and radiator fan switch, I thought about putting a manual switch on it, they are 2 wires hanging loose behind my head light maybe use them for power what yall think?
ReplyDeleteYou might be able to find a radiator drain plug at your local auto parts store. As for the fan switch, I've heard of others trying to find an alternative but they never found one that would work properly. You can wire the fan to manually turn it on with a switch. I believe all the stock switch does is ground itself out at a certain temperature so you may be able to ground one of those wires and the fan will kick on. If that is the case then all you'd need to do is run a wire from there, to the switch, and then to ground.
ReplyDeletehey mike just got my petcock I getting ready to install it, I also got new air filter for air box but its not like the old one, this may be silly question but one side of new filter has like a fuzzy texter on it and the other is like sponge which side faces the carburetor. thanks dutton
ReplyDeleteJUst wondering if my battery is dead in my klr 250 89 model will it make a difference in the running of the bike, and also I would like to know more about putting a starter on my bike, I messed up my leg the other day trying to kick start it. by the way the yamaha fuel cock seems to be working just fine,
ReplyDeleteSorry for the late reply, didn't notice these comments. If I remember correctly the fuzzy side goes toward the rear.
ReplyDeleteTechnically the bike should start/run with a dead battery but from everything I've read these bikes can be a complete nightmare to get started when the battery is completely dead. Not only that but the dead battery can make the tachometer act weird.
As far as I know there is no easy way to put a starter on this bike. There is a company called GOKI that makes an electric starter for the Kawasaki Mojave ATV which shares the same basic motor as the KLR250 but its a very expensive upgrade ($500) and would require modifications to fit the KLR. I've seen pictures of somebody trying to fit one to the KLR250 but never heard how well it worked or how hard the install was.
hey mike just thought I would let yall know the tw200 fuel petcock seems to be workin fine, Can u hook me up with how to put a starter on my 89 klr 250, I have seen pics on here with a starter installed, just wondering how it was done.
ReplyDeleteDutton, I'm not sure what happened but I answered these questions the other day and for some reason my comment is now gone.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, the bike should start and run with a dead battery but from everything I've heard it can be a nightmare to start these bikes without a good working battery. It will also make the tach act strange.
As far as I know nobody makes an electric starter for these bikes. A company called Goki that makes a conversion for the Kawasaki Mojave ATV (which shares the same basic engine as the KLR250) but I've never heard of anyone putting one on a KLR. I'm guessing the nearly $500 price for the starter is what prevented anyone from experimenting with one on the KLR250.
As for the air filter if I remember right the fuzzy side faces the rear of the bike.
Glad to hear the TW200 petcock worked on your bike!
hey mike i hear ya I posted several times before my comment ever showed up, thanks for the info, I have another problem though, I got on my bike and was going for a ride to try everything out finally, it cranks great but when u get out in the road and give it the gas it cuts out real bad anint got no power and i changed spark plug which was black with smut it done the same thing with new plug also, u think valves need adjusting or is there a certain way the choke cable fits into that little hole on side of the carburetor, looks like getting too much gas.
ReplyDeleteThat sounds like a bad carb diaphragm. If you take the carb off the bike and remove the plastic cover on the top you'll see a black rubber diaphragm. If that has a hole in it or isn't seated right it will not allow the slide to raise as you give it gas.
ReplyDeleteCan you tell me what the top plastic fitting above the fuel inlet is, I think it may have something to do with the slide mechanism and should it have a hose conected to it
ReplyDeleteThe black plastic fitting above the fuel inlet is the carb vent. There should be a hose going from that down to just in front of the wheel.
ReplyDeletehey mike good call I found a small hole in the diaphram and was able to patch it with a pool patch, works good now, maybe it will hold til i can afford to get new one they very expensive. I hear a chain rattling inside motor when its running, think maybe u could walk me through what i need to do to tighten it, I have read some info online but not sure, bike runs too good and I dont want to mess any thing up. I am almmost positive its not the valves
ReplyDeleteGlad to hear you found the problem.
ReplyDeleteAs for the chain noise that is probably a loose timing chain. There is an automatic tensioner on it so there really isnt anything to adjust. However they can sometimes stick and if you remove it and rewind it it might work again. Otherwise the only thing you can do is replace it. It could also just be that the chain itself is worn out.
As for removing it and "rewinding" it all you have to do is find the tensioner and remove the two bolts that hold it in place. The tensioner is on the left side of the bike just behind the cylinder. In the center of the tensioner is a screw. (you may have to remove a cap to get to the screw) With the tensioner off the bike you turn the screw (clockwise I believe) to tighten the tensioner. You'll know you're going the right way because the "plunger" will pull in when you turn the screw. Then while still holding the screw tightened up you need to carefully place the tensioner back on the bike and tighten the two bolts that hold it in place. Then after all of that you can finally remove the screw driver which will allow the plunger to push back out tensioning the chain.
I know it sounds complicated but when you see the part its pretty easy. If you can't figure it out just let me know and the next time I'm at my computer I'll see if I can make it more clear.
FYI While you have the tensioner removed do not kick the engine over or anything like that. That will cause the timing to jump and cause big problems.
hey mike I got tensioner on and checked my timing and seems like I am a tooth off on the exhaust side,that will cause one to run a little hottet than normal want it? when i was riding it before it was running about midway on the temp gauge,well anyway just wondering the best way to get this thing in time thanks dutton
ReplyDeleteI think you might be able to set it correctly by removing the tensioner and moving the chain until you get the timing marks to line up. Best bet with critical stuff like this is to follow the service manual. There are PDF versions available at the link on this page: http://klr250.blogspot.com/2010/10/klr250-pdf-repair-and-service-manuals.html
ReplyDeletehey mike, just wondering I removed my baffle from my 89 klr 250 and i ordered a new one, it will be a few days before i receive it. u think it would hurt to ride it without the bafle for a few days,
ReplyDeletehey mike I took my baffle out of my klr 250, i ordered a new one, but it will be a few days before i receive it, u think it will hurt anything to ride it for now without the baffle?
ReplyDeleteWell t can be risky. Removing the baffle can make the engine run a little leaner which can cause engine damage. If you want to see if it's running too lean you can take it for a ride and pull the spark plug out. If it's running lean it'll be white.
ReplyDeletewhere does the heat hand usually run on a klr 250, mine runs between 1/2 and 3/4 way and it actually went a little past 3/4, when i got back from a ride just letting it idle, i turn on fan but it didnt help
ReplyDeleteMy bike is the same way and I've heard from others who say the same. I'm not sure if it's that these bikes just run hot or if if the gauges are off.
ReplyDeleteHey Mike I accidently tried to start bike with Cam chain tensioner off. What problems will result from this? My bike has the klr 250 engine in it but has Starter motor.
ReplyDeleteIf you try to kick over the motor without the cam chain in place you could cause the piston to hit the valves which can result in bent valves, a damaged piston, and a damaged head.
ReplyDeletetough and reliable
ReplyDeletehttp://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/483529_315270021869429_100001593020757_859070_934257281_n.jpg
Sweet bike!
ReplyDelete