Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Kawasaki KLR250 FAQ

2002 Kawasaki KLR 250 KLR250 Frequently Asked QuestionsWhat was changed from 85-05?
For the most part the KLR 250 has remained the same throughout its life. There have been numerous paint and plastic color changes as we documented here. There were also a few changes to the engine such as the left crankshaft bearing being replaced with a more durable one betwen '89-'90 and a few changes to the intake camshaft profile.

Where can I get a manual
Sadly the two major service manual publishers, Clymer and Haynes, have never created a manual for the KLR250. For some engine work you could use the manual they made for the Mojave ATV but that won't do you much good when you need to work on the rest of the bike. The only true option is a service manual by Kawasaki. Unfortunately Kawi didn't make things easy (or cheap!) for us KLR250 owners as they require you buy two of their manuals to get full coverage on this bike. The KLR600 manual (part #99924-1050-01) is known as the base manual and includes the majority of information needed for the KLR250. However you'll also need the KLR250 supplement manual (part #99924-1051-15) which covers more KLR250 specific topics. You can purchase these manuals for $34.95 each straight from Kawasaki.com or you might want to keep an eye on ebay. EDIT: Thanks to a few members of the KLR650.net forums both KLR250 repair manuals are available in PDF format here. Edit: Sorry but it looks like the file was taken down

How fast do they go?
A good running KLR250 will happily go about 70 mph for extended lengths of time. With that said some owners have reported being able to go 90+ mph under the right conditions.

What kind of fuel mileage can I expect?
The KLR250 is said to get around 70 mpg but that can vary drastically depending on the speed, rider weight, tire choice, riding conditions, jetting, etc. You'll find most owners get around 55-65 mpg.

What aftermarket parts are available?
Unfortunately there aren't many aftermarket parts and accessories made for the KLR250. Below is a list of what parts we could find.
  • Racks: Moose Racing makes a strong steel rack for the KLR250. Dual Star and Cycleracks.com (pic) both make good rear racks for the KLR250. Turbo City also makes a range of racks and guards for this bike.

  • Exhaust: A while back Supertrapps made an exhaust for the KLR 250 but we have been notified by them that it is no longer available. The only two out of the box options are from FMF, with their Q4 exhaust system, and a "CZR" brand exhaust system (pic) that is sold on ebay.

  • Skid Plate: Utah Sports Cycle makes the aluminum Ricochet skid plate. (pic) As far as we know this is the only aftermarket skid plate available to replace the KLR250's weak stock piece.

  • Handlebars: The KLR250 uses regular 7/8" handlebars. That means that the majority of motorcycle handlebars made will fit on this bike. However handlebars do come in many different bends so you'll want to find one that best fits your needs. From our experience the cr-high bend handlebars are very close to the same dimensions as the stockers. However some owners find that the atv-high bend bars are taller giving a more upright riding position.

  • Fuel Tank: IMS makes a slightly larger plastic fuel tank for the 250. It is 3.2 gallons compared to the 2.9 gallon stocker.

  • Suspension: Progressive Suspension makes upgraded springs for the forks and a spring for the rear. Cogent Dynamics also makes a rear shock. Although the KLR250 has a relatively low seat height to begin with Koubalink makes lower links for those who are altitude challenged.

  • Other: Although there aren't many engine upgrades available specifically for the KLR250, Cycle Works Racing makes numerous upgrades for the Mojave ATV which will also fit the KLR including big bore kits and cams.

What jets come with the KLR250, what ones should I use, where do i get them?
The US version of the KLR250 comes with either a 118 or 120 main jet and a 35 pilot jet. From the factory the KLR250 is jetted fairly lean so even if you aren't planning any mods its a good idea to change to a slightly richer main jet. For stock exhaust/airboxes most people will stick with the stock 35 main jet and upgrade to a 122 main. For modified or aftermarket exhaust systems and cut airboxes you'll probably want to go up to a 38 or even 40 pilot while using a 125 or 127 main jet. Just remember that what jets you use really depend on your particular situation, which exhaust you used, how much you hacked up the airbox, and what altitude you ride at. Just because a 127 works for a guy at sea level doesn't mean you'll need that large of a main jet at 12,000 feet.

As for where to get the jets you have multiple options. You can check with your local Kawasaki dealer, or order them online. We have personally ordered from Jetsrus.com and had the proper jets delivered in just a matter of days. Many recommend Ronayers.com as well.

Is it true that the Mojave ATV shares the same engine/tranny?
Yes and no. The KLR and Mojave have very similar engines but there are distinct differences. The most obvious is the transmission, while the KLR has a six speed tranny, the Mojave has a five speed with reverse. The heads of the engines are basically identical but the parts used in each vary from year to year. Check out the camshaft part numbers below and you'll see what I mean. Not only did Kawasaki use different cams in the KLR through the years but the Mojave had its own specific cams as well.

KLR250 Cam Part Numbers
-Intake
    85-86 #12044-1351
    87-92 #12044-1119
    93-05 #12044-1351
-Exhaust
    85-05 #12044-5006

Mojave ATV Cam Part Numbers
-Intake
    87-93 #12044-1181
    94-04 #12044-1348
-Exhaust
    87-93 #12044-5007
    94-95 #12044-5009
    96-04 #12044-1427

Whats this I hear about an oil screen?

The oil screen is located behind the right side engine cover. It catches large debris that would normally get into the oil pump. It is strongly suggested that you check this screen because some owners have reported finding large amounts of rubber gasket debris clogging up the screen which can result in oil starvation. To get to the screen you'll need to drain the engine oil and antifreeze, then remove the brake pedal, water pump cover, water pump impeller, clutch cable, clutch lever (that goes into the case) and finally the right side cover. You'll find the screen located toward the bottom of the engine under the clutch. Removing the side cover usually requires a new gasket for the cover and water pump.

1 comment:

  1. Any advice on getting the engine cover off when checking oil screen, doesnt want to move in slightest. Just got an 86 and trying to check everything

    ReplyDelete